Menswear Cheatsheet Vol 1

Posted on August 15 2018

Menswear Cheatsheet Volume 1

Volume 1 - (Don't Sweat) The Small Stuff

When entering the realm of tailored menswear, you may encounter unfamiliar terms or concepts that don’t apply or are not discussed in other arenas of dress. No sweat! We’re here to give you an easily accessible directory of terms to educate or simply refresh your memory. 

Pant Break – A break is the folding or creasing created by the fabric halting at the slope of the top of your foot, so break is directly related to the length of your trousers. Each style comes with it’s own style cues and flatters different body shapes.

Short – Trousers cut short that they do not reach the top of the shoe. Because no crease is created, this is also a "No Break" style. Very trendy and considered a more youthful style. Pairs best with a slim cut suit and slim leg trouser.

No Break – No break occurs when trousers are cut precisely to graze the top of the shoe but do not fall over the shoe. Again this style is generally considered more youthful and trendy in a North American context, but is also favoured by individuals with a more European sensibility when it comes to tailoring.

Half Break – The half break is the contemporary classic. It’s a clean look that hits the top of the shoe, creating a slight break in the fabric. Great on a straight or slim leg trouser, the half break is flattering on all body shapes.

Full Break – The traditional option, a full break is created by a longer trouser length and as a result, creases in the front and the back. Suitable for a straight, generally classic or wider trouser leg. The full break is often favoured by classic dressers, stiff traditionalists and those who embody a retro inspired style.

Stays – Stays are small flat, pointed pieces of metal or plastic used to maintain the collar shape and keep your collar points sharp. They can be permanently sewn into the collar or can be made removable with housing channels sewn into the collar. Permanent stays are easy for those who find small accessories easy to lose, but extra care will have to be exercised when pressing. Removable is convenient for cleaning as they can be removed before laundering and pressing. Removable says can also be replaced with customized monogrammed metal or wooden stays for a personal touch when dressing.

Classic metal stays. Most stays are a similar shape, though can vary in finish.

Top - Removable Stays

Bottom - Permanent Stays

Tie Loop – A tie loop is a special feature available on some custom shirts. The loop is hidden underneath the collar to help hold your tie in place so that it doesn’t peek down the back of your collar. This is especially helpful for those who prefer to wear their tie a bit looser for comfort or have a preference for bulkier tie fabrics.

Stay tuned for more terms by checking back here at the blog which posts every Wednesday or follow us on Instagram for blog alerts!  

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